The Lake County has plenty to offer, especially when the sun is out

It’s the best day of the best week of the year so far; an unseasonable April for Ireland.

It wasn’t that long ago Eowyn brought wild gales cascading across the peaks and knolls Cavan takes its name from — now the sun’s beating through my windshield, heating the steering wheel in my grip and dazzling as it reflects.

Megan and I plan to spend two days exploring the length and breadth of the Lake County before pushing west into Leitrim.

We’re basing ourselves in the lavish Farnham Estate. A 4-star spa and golf resort that combines historic charm with contemporary amenities, it offers guests a tranquil retreat amid lush woodlands and serene waterways.

A long, weaving driveway cuts through a slice of the pristine golf course and into a private car park, where a complimentary shuttle bus transports guests directly to the hotel.

The lobby’s vivid and stylish. The estate’s original pillars separate the modern hustle and bustle of reception from a window into the building’s past; two stately rooms with period furniture and décor; free to lounge in at your leisure.

Our room is spacious, modern and tasteful. A glass door provides ample light, the bed’s comfortable and the bathroom contains a step-in shower and sizeable bath.

There's a stunning spa on site and judging by the frequency of guests in robes we met in the corridors and lifts, it's clearly one of the resort’s biggest draws. ​

Crafts of Ireland

We make our first stop; Crafts of Ireland — where we’re greeted by the warm and confident Sandra.

Coffee and home-baked cake awaits in a wonderfully decorated café – adorned with vintage automobiles and motorbikes, antique crafting equipment and an array of in-house art.

Sandra clearly lives and breathes her passion. Whether for nourishment, necessity or pleasure, craftwork was elemental in her upbringing. She’s a fountain of knowledge.

With her encouragement we try our hands at wool painting.

The workshop’s bright and comfortable, and with spectacular views of the ancient east and Sliabh na Cailleach, it’s hard not to find inspiration.

Using wool from the farm’s sheep we spend an serene hour quietly felting landscapes onto canvas, blending fibres and shades to breath depth into our work. It was therapeutic.

I reminisce on my granny as we pass an old Singer sewing machine; she’d used a similar model to stich and sell curtains in St George’s Market. They were heavy-duty in weight and in quality, and they’d frame every window at home.

Crafting’s a trade I’d confined to old time memory, but it’s alive and vibrant in extraordinary spaces like Crafts of Ireland. It’s an essential part of our heritage after all; and with stalwarts like Sandra it’ll be persevered.

Dún a Rí

Shadowing the Cabra River we walk looped paths round Dún a Rí Forest Park, crossing bridges and ascending stairways through the wood’s verdure.

Bees and birds hum and whistle while we take in Tobar na Splinne — The Healing Well, one of many elements that ties Dún a Rí not just to nature, but to deep-rooted local history and mysticism.

Cavan Adventure Centre

Years ago I’d kayaked the Ardèche and it was life-affirming. But that was a younger, fitter Conall. I was determined to do it again, but there was trepidation in the climb over the bobbing hull and into the conduits of Lough Oughter.

However, Cavan Adventure Centre’s Sean emboldened us with a confident push and any lingering anxiety was quickly extinguished by the river's utter beauty and tranquillity.

Our vessels glided across the glassy tributary, passing swans and their young as the sun poured fire above.

The splash and drip of the oars brought relief and we were hushed as cows trundled down the banks to graze with Clough Oughter Castle in view.

We rode the waves of passing fishing boats, letting the ripples push us which way and that before steering homewards.

People’s Restaurant

Owned and operated by cousins Lubo and Daniel, People’s restaurant in Cavan town showcases a fusion of Irish and European cuisines curated from premium local produce. The interior is elegant with a relaxed ambiance and the service flawless.

I order the ginger beer battered prawns to start, followed by roasted monkfish tail. Both dishes are terrific and expertly presented; sumptuous prawns crisply coated in a light batter, with a citrus slaw and spiced oil to match. Then juicy hunks of monkfish accompanied by al dente greens and richly seasoned choux potato.

To drink, I treat myself to a cherry whiskey sour; rightfully endorsed by a Farnham employee.

Maxwells Restaurant

We kick off day two with a hearty breakfast in Farnham’s own Maxwells Restaurant. It’s a stunning room, with views of the adjoining lawns and courtyard. There’s an assorted buffet and a selection of cooked meals available to order to your table.

We check out a selection of dishes; the vegan cooked breakfast, American-style pancakes, fruit salad and fresh yogurt. It’s flavoursome and perfect fuel for the day ahead.

Fowley’s Falls

Parked on a narrow Leitrim lane deep in the sticks, we trek lazily into the woods. A well maintained trail offers consistent views of the Glenaniff River as it cascades downhill toward Lough Melvin.

As we wander deeper we’re rewarded with increasingly impressive waterfalls, cumulating in a tiered staircase-like formation. A hidden gem for sure

Glencar Alpacas

Heading further west towards the craggy Leitrim/Sligo border we begin our descent into Glencar Valley.

The films of John Ford busy my consciousness, not The Quiet Man, but The Searchers. The setting was romantic and wild.

Towering rock-strewn cliffs slope into deep green meadows that slipped gradually into the mirrored lough below.

My tyres spun as I turned up a pebble-laden track towards Des’ farm.

“Des?”

“Conall.”

This was a generational farm; Des’ father was born here; the vestiges of his ancestral home still clinging to the hill-side.

The higher we climb, the more remarkable the vistas. Des’s land could be the most picturesque on the island, but not without strife: his grandfather spent six months channelling by hand into the Dartry Mountains, where their ewes sequester to lamb.

Our alpaca comrades were Sonny, Aston and Arlow. They were entirely individual, espousing distinct personalities and traits. I gave Sonny’s soft chocolate fleece a good pet, his goofy face chock full of expression and thought.

It was a pure joy to ramble through Des’ homeland. His pride in heritage and native soil is plain to see, and his passion for his trade palpable.

Cavan Burren Park

Teeming with geological wonders, rich archaeology, and well-marked walking trails, Cavan Burren Park allows visitors to experience tangible history as you explore its abundant landmarks.

Our guide Ben receives us with a smile and picks a suitable trajectory.

He’s endlessly knowledgeable and patient as we tread meaningfully across the karst limestone terrain; examining some of the vast boulders deposited during the last ice age, tiptoeing around portal and wedge tombs - taking in 340 million years of history.

Our tour reaches its peak physically and figuratively with a humbling hilltop view across the plateau, where the once all-consuming glacier carved through this landscape and out to sea. It serves as an enlightening end to an expedition into our ancient selves and beyond.

Cedars Steakhouse

Our dinner reservation is with Cedars Steakhouse, located within the cut-stone building that once housed Farnham estate’s managers.

We’re escorted inside by the charming Yassine. Our cosy velvet banquette is walled with exposed brickwork, and subdued lighting generates an intimate supper club atmosphere.

Yassine returns with Patrick, the bar’s manager, and complimentary gin cocktails in tow. Both are citric, refreshing and well-balanced.

As our food arrives, Yassine reappears with wine to compliment our courses. I’m on the fish again; beetroot and poitín cured cod, followed by pan-seared turbot.

The cod is the dish of the weekend; it’s sharp, vibrant and light, and the turbot isn’t far behind; flaky flesh under crispy skin, resting on boxty in a lobster bisque — properly moreish.

Yassine’s dry wine is perfectly paired, elevating our food.

Winding down we relax with another cocktail in the cellar bar. It’s the perfect space for a quiet evening drink and the perfect end to a whirlwind trip to this stunning, and sometimes overlooked county.

FACTFILE: CAVAN

■ Conall was hosted by Fáilte Ireland. Go to discoverireland.ie now to help plan your next short break